Maureen Fitzsimon goes back to VietNam, then on to Cambodia 2012

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Angkor Wat, Ha Long Bay with Mike.
Continued from Page 1 - The South

Monday 9 April

Phu Quoc -> Ho Chi Minh -> Phnom Penh

Off to Cambodia...

Itinerary for Weeks 3 and 4.

Had a nice breakfast with the girls, and then took the shuttle to the airport.  Just me.

Vietnam Airlines again left on time, and Phu Quoc and southern Vietnam looked lovely from the air.

Mike arrived from Kuala Lumpur at SGN airport 90 minutes before me, and we met up outside the domestic terminal.  A taxi trip into town to pick up my big bag from a prior hotel, took us past some of the city landmarks.  Then straight back to the airport for another on time flight to Phnom Penh.

After a bit of fussing arranging the Cambodian visa and local currency, we were met by our guide, Kheang, who has spectacular English.  Apparently, 30 years ago, a friend of his was taking English lessons.  Liking the sound of English, he rode his bicycle 20 km each way for lessons.  This has led to many types of jobs over the years, which have polished his skills to a high level.  On the way into town, he gave us a good commentary about Cambodia -politics, history, demographics, geography, and the like.

Our hotel is interesting.  We seem to have a room in a renovated old house in a back street.  It is old, but large and comfortable.

The heat is oppressive.  The humidity unbelievable.  26�C min.  37�C max.

Had a lovely dinner close to the hotel.  Nearly everything is charged in USD.  Seems a little more expensive than Vietnam, but also better.

The roads seem better also, and there are more cars and fewer motor bikes.  It is amazing that Cambodia has risen so much from the ashes of Pol Pot in 33 years.  Nothing was left, when his reign ended, having killed 2 million people out of 7 million.  Makes Hitler almost sound reasonable! ....Maybe, not!

Cheers, Maureen.

Tuesday 10 April

Phnom Penh

After a delicious breakfast, we headed off with Kheang and our Driver, Mr Mab, in our air conditioned, but still hot, Camry.  Firstly, the palace.  Magnificent.  It was built in 1866 by King Norodom at the junction of the Tonle Sap River and the Mekong, facing East, as is traditional.

In the grounds of Phnom Penh Palace

Thank goodness, Pol Pot had the King under house arrest, and didn't wreck that, too!  One room, a Buddhist shrine (the Silver pagoda), had over 5000 solid silver floor tiles.  And a Buddha was made of 90 kg of gold, and others were studded with diamonds and precious stones.  I'm talking 9584 diamonds on one Budda alone!  Particularly striking, was the Emerald Buddha, made out of translucent jade.  Sort of Buddhism�s answer to the Vatican Museums!

The palace is actually a large site with numerous buildings, including a throne room, a Moonlight Pavilion, and the Royal Residence.  Hundreds of metres of murals would once have been magnificent.  This is the only part of the complex which needs renovation.  Everything else is perfect, including the gardens.

Things went downhill after the palace.  We went to visit the "Killing Fields" of Pol Pot.  Not fun.  It was Mourning Day in Cambodia, so the positive thing was that there was a big Buddhist prayer service in a marquee on the Camp Choeng Ek, where 86 mass graves have been unearthed.

Our guide was 12 years old when this all began, and was working the fields outside Phnom Penh.  At the end of the Vietnam War, when the US heavily bombed Cambodia, many children were orphaned.  These children were recruited and brainwashed by Pol Pot and became the "enforcers" of his murderous regime.

A school was turned into a prison, the S21, and is now the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.  More gruesome stuff on display, initiated by the evil, psychopathic Pol Pot.  An Australian journalist was among the 2 million tortured shockingly, and killed.  In the school grounds we met one of the two living survivors of S21.

Then on to Phnom Penh Museum.  Thankfully, Pol Pot closed it and left many priceless antiques and sculptures untouched.  He destroyed plenty as well!  Buddhist and Hindu sculptures and artefacts dating back to the 2nd century were on view.  Interesting to note that the elaborate roof was repaired by the Australian Government and and several Australian corporate donors in 1994.

Bamboo Naga being prepared for Khmer New Year in the park below Wat Phnom

Finally, we went to the Wat Phnom Temple, Phnom Penh's namesake.  It was very, very hot and humid climbing the stairs and I felt quite faint.

As we drove around we talked to Kheang about life in Cambodia.  (And it is "Cambodia", not "Kampuchea". That name was used by Pol Pot and is ofen still used by some Vietnamese, but locals definitely use "Cambodia".)  The average wage in Cambodia is $10 a week.  Pocket money for little kids in Australia.  School is free, when you are lucky enough to have one nearby.  Hospitals are also free, if you want to wait as long as you do at Logan Hospital.  Our guide thought that all doctors were killed by Pol Pot, but I heard that 4 lived.  The government is attempting to immunize all children and this has improved child health considerably.

There is a Constitutional Monarchy, with elections every 5 years.  The son of the King is 59 years old and never married, and has no known children, so the future could be different.

Saw the Aussie Embassy, next to the Parliament.  What a horrible building!  We hear that it is difficult to obtain even a tourist visa to Australia, and so to implement that policy, they begin by really turning people off, just by the look of the Embassy.

Back to the hotel, and straight to the shady pool, I went.  Heaven.

Had a rest and then, in the evening, went for a big walk.  Crossing the road is much more difficult than in Vietnam.  Since rebuilding the roads after Pol Pot, many are 5 lanes each way, and the traffic moves faster, due to the larger number of cars.  At least the ped crossings are better lit, even if still mostly ignored.

We walked in the heavy, hot evening air along two boulevards, which were beautiful.  Several dance groups were practising on the polished granite surfaces, just like they do in China.

Past the Palace, and on to the waterfront, we trotted, and found "My Home Restaurant", as recommended on TripAdvisor.  Delicious!  Cheap!  Something about the way I slowly, and as clearly as I can, ask for a glass of WHITE wine, seems to translate as RED wine.  This has happened a couple of times now.  Never mind.  $20 for two of us for the lot; including lots of water!

Having lost courage to cross the road, we took a Tuk Tuk back to the hotel.  Quite comfortable, but the motor bike towing us, had no headlights.  Glad I wore white slacks and Mike wore his white shirt.

Cheers, Maureen

Wednesday 11 April

Phnom Penh -> bus to Siem Reap

This morning, we were taken to the bus station by Kheang and the driver and said goodbye.

Roadside New Year entertainment on the road from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap

Now, if you have to travel from Phnom Penh to Siem Riep in the dry season, and so cannot go by boat up the Mekong, I highly recommend you fly.  Having done the 7 hour trip on the bus, I recommend you don't.  The country is dead flat, and most houses are high on stumps, no doubt, due to big floods.

The bus stops after 3.5 hours at Kampong Thom, for 30 minutes.  It takes 25 minutes to receive your meal, so it was a good thing that it was salty and inedible.

I staggered off the bus, having occupied 1/2 seat squashed against a window, while tiny Mike took up 1.5 seats beside me.

Our guide, Khom, and driver, Dee, greeted us in the wilderness which passed for a bus station.  We are in the equivalent of the Darwin "build up".  Very hot temperatures, sky high humidity, and no rain.  Apparently, the worst weather in the year!

Angkor Wat Corridor

Angkor Wat Gallery

Angkor Wat Reflections

We dropped luggage at our hotel, the Somavedi, and headed to the massive Ankor Wat site, one of 296 temples.  2 million people a year do likewise.  We took a few classic shots, and then returned to the hotel for a lovely dinner.

Stopped via the Pharmacy, as my left ear has been blocked since swimming in the last hotel pool.  Can you believe $14.50 for Waxsol?  Hope this will fix the deafness!

Cheers, Maureen.

Thursday 12 April

Siem Reap

Today has not been so much a day touring, as an endurance test.  It is blisteringly hot.  High 30s with unimaginable suffocating humidity; just the weather to do a 6 hour step class in the blinding sun.  I have to confess I haven�t felt great since my virus which started in Hue.  Today was no cure!  It is now all a blur of Kings from the 12^th century and even some from the 9^th century.

Our guide, Khom is young, devoted, intense, a very detailed perfectionist and a fountain of knowledge, which he divulges in great detail.  We started at Ankor Thom.  The site is vast.  Over the years various Kings had their own pet building project, which adds up to quite a conglomeration of buildings.  There are Hindu, and predominantly Buddhist temples, mostly built in the 12^th century.  There is a 16 km moat around the lot, fed by natural springs and rain.

We started at Ankor Thom, which has a central city area called Bayon.  It was built by a very active chap called King Jayavarman VII.  It alone, covers an area of 9 km².  The Bayon has lots of towers with Buddhas facing thee four directions of the compass.

One of the most well-known areas is Ta Prohm.  Think "Lara Croft, Tomb Raider"; think "unrenovated".  Huge tree roots snake around the ruins.

The French, German, Japanese and Czech governments all were helping with the renos, as was UNESCO.

We have a pass for visiting all these sights with our photo on the ticket.  This is the "before" version of us.  Hate to think what the "after" will be like.

Our Jeep to Touich.  No tuk-tuk for us!

Collapsed into the shower after all of this, and resurrected to go to dinner at "Touich" restaurant, as recommended on TripAdvisor.  They offered to pick us up, as the restaurant is in the back blocks.  This turned out to be the best part.

A very friendly chap (as all Cambodians seem to be), arrived at our hotel in the oldest jeep on the planet.  Maybe WWII!  At least that was when the roadworthy was done.  There were no walls, doors, roof etc., and we had to cling on like grim death.  Suspension had not been invented when this baby was built.

Anyway, had the red snapper done on the barbie in a salt crust.  Unfortunately overdone.  Mike's ginger chicken was very good.  The atmosphere and the staff were fantastic.

Then back to our 3 star hotel in the jeep, where we received some startled looks as we climbed out.

Trying to be brave about facing tomorrow, but think I might have hot nightmares!

Forgot to mention that tomorrow is Khmer New Year.  Everyone is on holidays, and decorations abound!

Cheers, Maureen.

Friday 13 April

Siem Reap

Happy Khmer New Year!

The exiled Thai Prime Minister, Thaksin Shinawatra, is in town.  Tomorrow, there is a big reception for him and there are goodness knows how many army and police in town.  They are standing everywhere, beside their motor bikes, with big automatic weapons at the ready.  Very welcoming.

The children here are on school holidays, which means that they are available all day to pester tourists to buy awful souvenirs.  They are unbelievably clever.  Every sales pitch in the book has been memorized.  A little bunch of tiny children today, recited at a breathless pace, the numbers one to ten in at least 5 languages.

The local currency is used with reluctance.  Instead, the greenback is the go everywhere.

Usually, on holidays, I halve my blood pressure tablets.  No stress.  Went to 1/4 today, and was much less faint.  Maybe don't need them at all when not trying to operate under pressure.  .  Also, today we were more able to duck into the shadows, as we visited smaller temples.  Nevertheless, I won't complain about a silly little one hour, air-conditioned step class at the gym ever again!

Today, we tramped all over Preah Khan, Neak Poan, East Mebon and Pre Rup.  They date to 952 AD (East Mebon), and 961 (Pre Rup).  Both were built by King Jayavarman II.  These survive today, despite being built out of clay bricks.  As is per usual for here, the Buddhists and Hindus have both had an input.  Depending on the religion at the time, they either go over the top with Buddhas, or Vishnu, Brahma and Shiva.  As you do.

Saturday 14 April

Siem Reap �> fly to Hanoi

In the morning, we "did" more temples.  This time, they were some distance away.  Firstly, Banteay Samre and then Banteay Srey.

They were made of pink sandstone, and were remarkably well preserved, considering they dated back to 967.  The carvings were very finely and intricately done.

It was very busy, as countless Thai people (well, 50,000 apparently), in fleets of buses were all around Siem Riep for the big meeting tonight with their exiled Prime Minister.  Nearly all were wearing red shirts.  Even more police and soldiers lined the streets, mostly under umbrellas, so their automatic rifles did not become prematurely hot!

The Thais continued to flood into town all day, and there was quite a traffic jam on the way to the airport this afternoon.

Di and Kay are magic!  Met up with them this afternoon in Siem Reip, soon after their flight landed from Ho Chi Minh.  With their equipment, I was finally able to fix my ear!  Yeehar!

It was great to see Kay and Di again, albeit briefly.  Di's Mum, Pat, had been run into by a motor bike in Ho Chi Minh, and was sporting a large bandage on her leg.  A bit worrying!

Stepping Stones Cambodia

We had arranged to meet a gentleman called Sok So, and we spent some time with him at our hotel, having read about him In the Courier Mail colour magazine.  With the help of a couple of young Aussies, So has built a school in a village outside Siem Reap.  The idea is that the children are taught English, so that their job prospects considerably improve.  Some go to the Government school as well, but spend at least one hour a day going to his First Steps School.  Eighty per cent of people in Siem Riep (population 1 million), work in some capacity connected with the tourist industry.

In Cambodia, there are two shifts of school each day, so children attend either morning or afternoon.  Mostly, they spend the other half of the day working - on the farm or selling produce or souvenirs.  Many drop out before finishing Primary School.

Aussies have installed solar power at the school.  This is a big advance, as most villages have no electricity.  They have 19 laptops, to teach computer skills, and English.  A number have been donated by BBC in Brisbane, and Grace College at Redcliffe has also been a big financial support.

They have installed water filtration and, in the future, hope to establish a medical clinic and an organic farm.

The school�s focus is English teaching and it is not aligned with any religious group.  We were invited to come and see the school but the children are on a 2 week break for New Year holidays.

Read more about the inspirational Sok So and his project at Stepping Stones Cambodia.

Hanoi

Yet again, Vietnam Airlines was right on schedule.  We were met in Hanoi by a very comical chap, called Quin, and have settled into the Maison d'Hanoi Hanova.  Glad we paid for an upgraded room with a window.  Very nice.

Cheers, Maureen.

Sunday 15 April

Hanoi

Our hotel, in the Old French Quarter, is smallish.  Maybe 50 rooms.  Almost all seem to be Aussies.  So you can imagine, that we were rather surprised to be given celebrity status by the locals touring the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.  Especially Mike.  Again!!  This phenomenon has been previously seen in Shanghai, Barcelona and even Norway!

A huge group from country Vietnam had never really seen "Westerners", and mobbed us like we were rock stars.  We complained to our guide that Aussie's are actually "Southerners", not "Westerners", but apparently we all look alike.  EVERYONE, wanted a photo with us.  Mike is weird and pale and they had not seen anyone like him.  Don't these people have TV.  Or Google?  Maybe not.

We arrived early to see Ho Chi Minh, and the queues were already enormous.  Will have to send the Vietnamese some suggestions for fun family Sundays.  They are in dire need.

Anyway, eventually we filed past the fellow.  He looked pretty good for someone who had been dead since 1969.  The Mausoleum is severe, austere, and heavily policed.  A mini Mao Tse Tung/ Tiananmen Square affair.  Same architecture.  Powerful.

Apparently, Ho wanted to be cremated and tossed in a simple grave.  Didn't quite get his last wish on that one.

HCM's house was nice, small and simple, and is well maintained.  The Presidential Palace was suitably impressive, and I'm sure Julia G.  and even Obama, would feel at home when visiting Hanoi.

The French exploited Vietnam, and especially Hanoi, for 100 years.  In return, the French left architecture, bakeries and Catholicism.  All are evident in modern Hanoi.  Not sure if this was a good deal.

We saw the small One Pillar Pagoda, dating from the 11th century.  Most Vietnamese are Atheists, apparently.  However, there seem to be plenty of practicing Buddhists every time we are anywhere near a Pagoda.

Quin took us to an embroidery factory, staffed by the disabled.  Many have deformities subsequent to Agent Orange.  Lovely work.  Even better and cheaper than the able-bodied embroidery place in Hoi An.

We spent quite a while at the Museum of Ethnology.  This place had indoor and outdoor exhibits depicting how people in Vietnam's ethnic minorities dress, live, eat etc.  We decided not to see the Hoa Lo prison, also known as the "Hanoi Hilton".  We are all atrocitied out.

The Temple of Literature, Vietnam's first University, built in the 11th Century, was an interesting stop.  Some of it was reconstructed after being bombed by those jolly Americans.

The sympathy vote for the day goes to the two Cyclo drivers, who spent an hour peddling us around the Old Quarter of Hanoi.  It was a great way to see everything, with buses, motorbikes and cars, weaving their way around us.

Then on to a Water Puppet Show.  Very well done indeed.  The place was quite packed.  Luckily, we had spare seats beside us.  There was simply not enough length for us to fit our knees in the seats.  Sideways was the only option!

We did a drive past the Opera House, built in 1911.  HCM had travelled to Paris, and quite liked the Opera.

Then, we left our guide, and walked around the lake, over the famous red bridge, and up to a 5th floor cafe, to see the view, and have a drink.  It was a short walk back to the hotel.

Tomorrow we are off to Halong Bay, spending 2 nights on a Junk.  As they say...  Someone�s gotta do it!

Love, Maureen

Monday 16 April

Hanoi -> drive to Ha Long Bay

Ended up at a place called "The Hanoi Social Club" for dinner last night.  It was in a back street of the Hanoi Old French Quarter.  Very Bohemian.  Simple, nice and cheap.  The building was an old French terrace house, with shuttered doors leading on to little balconies on several floors.  Cute.

Early this morning we were transferred by private car to Halong Bay.  In Australia, the drive would be considered terrifying.  Here, it was skilful driving.  Weaving over double lines, and passing cars with a few millimetres to spare etc.  We had a few light showers on the way.  As we approached Halong Bay, the weather cleared.

The junk is the Victory Star.  Very comfortable.  There are a few dozen on board, and quite a mix of nationalities.  The French predominate.  Only 10 of us are doing the 2 night cruise.

We admired the dramatic limestone cliffs rising near vertically from a deep green sea.  With four to a rowing boat, we toured a waterborne fishing village.  The ladies who rowed our boats certainly don't need gym memberships.

Then, we had time for swimming and kayaking.  Mike and I are hopeless at the latter, and the water temperature was 21C.  Not to mention the fact that it looked a little polluted with bonus large jellyfish.  So we chatted on the deck to like-minded passengers instead.

Meals are marathon affairs.  6 courses for both lunch and dinner.  Very nice, but there is only so much a person can enjoy.

We had a cooking lesson before dinner.  Simple and tasty stuff.

Looking forward to more Halong Bay tomorrow.

Love, Maureen

Tuesday 17 April

Halong Bay Cruise

On the boat, we don't have to worry about money.  Just charge it and pay at the end.  A relief!

While Cambodians almost never used their official currency, the Real, Vietnam is more fond of the Dong than the Dollar.  But...  It is crazy.  Typical was the scenario on checking out of the hotel in Hanoi.
Me: "We drank one Diet Coke from the mini-bar."
Front Desk Receptionist: "That will be 2 dollar."   So, I give her USD2.
Front Desk Rec.: "We don't take dollar."
Me: "But you just said it was $2!"
FDR: "But it is 48,000 dong."  (A grossly inflated exchange rate!)   I give her 50,000 dong.
FDR: "We do not have change."   And she looks at *ME* like *I* am crazy!

So, as I said, it is a relief not to have this type of conversation all day.

Today, all 10 of us on the 2 night cruise, transferred to a smaller boat for day tripping.  It was lovely to be offered cold drinks soon after boarding.  Ten minutes later, they came with the bill.  Would have been nice to be told we were paying when drinks were offered!

We went cruising around, and the day was cloudy, but only 27C.  Arrived at Hang Sun Sot caves.  Lots of steps, but in the shade.  Not like Cambodia.  We had prepared by attending the early morning Tai Chi class on the boat, so, as you can imagine, we took to it all like mountain goats.

Rather nice, but not as good as Jenolan, or the Texas Caves which Bjelke-Petersen dynamited when he chose the caves for the site of the Glen Lyon Dam.  At least we saw the Texas Caves pre shameful environmental vandalism.

Then went to a beach which looked like sand had been artificially added.  Some went swimming.  The water was 21C and I didn't like the turbidity enhanced by stryofoam and other litter.  Very glad that we have done the limestone Palawan islands in the Philippines.  Similar geography, but crystal clear water, and great coral and marine life to boot.  Anyway, good reading time was had!

On to a bay, with more caves, reached by kayak.  Mike was not at all keen, given his disastrous kayaking in the Philippines, so we relaxed on the boat.  I am into my sixth novel - unprecedented on a holiday.  iPads are brilliant!

The normal six course lunch was served!  Nice seafood.  Luckily, that came first!

Then, more cruising around and back to the main ship.

Nice day!

Cheers, Maureen.

Wednesday 18 April

Halong Bay �> drive to Hanoi

Last day!

Left the Victory Star ship today.  Was a bit cranky that the boat cancelled the tour on our itinerary this morning, and just told us we had to spend the time on the boat.  Not what we paid for.  Another man from the US was not happy either.  The French manager on the boat didn't care less.  Told him our travel agent and internet publicity would follow up.

Otherwise, the ship provided great staff, fantastic food, a lovely room, fairly good weather (just cloudy, no rain) and lovely scenery.  The pollution was, of course, sad.  I would recommend the one night cruise, because it appears you don't do a lot more on the 2 night cruise.

We are going to La Badiane restaurant for a final (French) meal, tonight in Hanoi.  Leave early for the airport tomorrow, and have over 7 1/2 hours in Kuala Lumpur.  Then home on Friday morning to a mountain of paper work.  All good things must end!

Have had a fabulous time, and feel I have really "done" Vietnam and Cambodia thoroughly.  Have to thank our travel agent, Mr Do Ha, at Private Asia Tours, for really looking after us.

The best thing was the people.  Polite, hardworking, conscientious, and positive.  Life is not easy for people here, but seems less complicated.  We are so much more privileged in Australia, yet we worry so much.  Maybe our expectations are just too high for our own good!

Cheers, Maureen.

Thursday 19 April

Hanoi -> Kuala Lumpur -> Brisbane

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